Greenlawn Sprinkler has been serving the Colorado community amd we have been proudly making Greenlawn valves since 1962. We specialize in manufacturing quality lawn sprinkler parts. In addition, our friendly & professional staff is here to answer any questions you may have about our company or our services.
Beautiful Surroundings are a natural with Greenlawn sprinkler products. Easy maintenance, durable components, and reliable performance make up the Greenlawn quality package.
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- 61 Series
- 71 Series
- 72 Series
- Cross Tee Manifold
- Cutoff Tees
- Manifold Tees
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Our Greenlawn Valve Installation & Trouble-Shooting Guide – Installation Instructions Trouble Shooting Guide
Thanks to Irri-Gartors Underground you can see a video of how our solenoids are manufactured. They are working on the rest of the video to show the entire valve being made. Check it out and see how the American Made Greenlawn valves are put together.
I need parts for Green Lawn valves #3022039. Please let me know how to order solenoids and diaphragms. Thank you
That number you provided is a patent number not a part number. What you need to figure out is what valve you have. Is it 1” or 1.5”? My first guess is that it is 1” as this is much more common. Is it grey or black? If it’s grey is the 61 series if it’s black 71 series. If you see the links above, you can click on the specific series to match up with what you have. Again, my guess is 61 series. Once you get there, you can see the parts listed. Once you figure out what part you need, we would have you find the closest retail location to you and have you pick it up there (probably cheaper than we sell them online). You can find a list of Retail Locations here.
We have Greenlawn series 61 zone valves. Water is running (slightly) thru one of the valves when the system is not on. Would this be a diaphragm issue or??
I would agree, this sounds like a diaphragm issue. If you have done work on the lines, it’s possible a small piece of debris has become lodged under the diaphragm and isn’t allowing it to seal completely. It’s also possible the diaphragm has just become old and damaged. You can take the lid off and get to the diaphragm. One piece of advice, when you take out the bolts, make sure you have your hand or something below to catch the nut, it will fall out. Once you get the lid off, you can pull the diaphragm up and see if there is debris under it. Clear the debris and replace the diaphragm. If you don’t see any debris, you can feel the edge of the diaphragm and the base where the diaphragm sits. You are feeling for any bumps or nicks. Most likely it’s a bit of debris and you can replace the lid. Tighten the bolts back down in a star pattern to make sure it seals correctly. If there is a problem with the diaphragm, you can just get a new 71-D. Good Luck
Greg, Thanks for the tips on the home page.
Thought you might like to know about another “issue” to have folks look for. Even with the solenoid off, I could hear water running at a reduced rate. Your comment on the diaphragm sounded like the solution. Because the bolts were rusted and the sprinkler installers put the valves too close together, I had to cut the whole valve with a hack saw and then use a 2″ extension pipe to elevate the new valve (which I had purchase 3 or 4 years ago. Well rats, water still flowed at a reduced rate. I finally lucked out when I noticed that the solenoid plunger “bottom” did NOT have the clear plastic coating… there was nothing flush to prevent the water from running. I put in an old plunger with the black plastic, and the valve works great. I do have a picture of both of the plungers if you would like me to send it.
This is a very rare but still possible thing that can happen. Sometimes the epoxy just gives out over time or doesn’t adhere to the metal like it should. Good catch on this. I’m sure the replacement plunger is working like a champ now. Thanks for the follow-up.
I have a system that has 10 series 61 valves on it. But no where to add air to blow out the system. DO you have a guide for how one goes about draining this system? I have no information about the system from the person i bought the house from and i would really hate to mess it up the first winter i own it.
Jason, Greenlawn doesn’t recommend people blowing out their systems. You take a chance of stretching out the diaphragm or getting a piece of debris lodged in the valve when you blow high pressure air in your lines. Sprinkler lines should be designed with a natural drain to the lower sprinkler heads. What we do is just shut off the water supply. Leave the timers on for a week or two after shutting off the water. This allows air to get into the lines and naturally allow the water to flow out or just evaporate. Then during the true winter months, just turn off the timer and wait for next year. A lot of systems also have a drain valve in the valve box that you can open up and allow water to drain out as well as let air in to help drain the lines. Hope this helps.
Great thank you. It makes total sense. However, last weekend i opened all of the bleed screws to drain water the water out. Can i close those back off, run the timing as suggested above with the same result? Or will having opened the bleed screws, in some way, messed up that procedure? Thank you
Jason, You can run the valves with the bleed screw open but, you might want to close them so when you fire them up next season, you won’t have all of your valves running and spraying water all over. Good Luck.